|Few Caribbean islands can offer up the
diversity of our island country - where there's so much more than
"rum, sun & raggae" - especially in the often overlooked
capital city of Kingston, the heartbeat of Jamaica and the second largest
English-speaking city south of Miami, Florida. Kingston overlooks what is
the seventh largest natural harbour in the world. Like a fan, the city
spreads north from the harbour as far as the foothills of the famous Blue
Mountains - impressive peaks that form a glorious backdrop to the whole.
What better way to combine business with leisure than to take in all that Kingston has to offer? With an eye on satisfying the most demanding visitor, this cosmopolitan city extends excellence in upscale high-rise accommodations, fine international dining, pulsating nightlife, business and financial services, shopping and culture. Just like any major metropolitan city, we have our share of street vendors, beggars and unappealing, less desirable areas, but north of the harbour and uptown, "New Kingston" sparkles!
Most people think of Kingston as being divided into two parts. It's not unlike a vibrant modern American city in that there's a downtown sector -- stretching north from the waterfront to the busy traffic junction at Cross Roads -- and also an uptown sector, which extends to the smart suburbs located at the base of the mountains. It will probably take you at least half a day to check out the downtown sights -- maybe a bit more to encompass all the must-dos in the uptown area.
DOWNTOWN KINGSTON - a great place to sample the essential atmosphere of this noisy and vigorous metropolis. Finding your way about on foot is pretty easy, since Kingston uses the grid system. If you get tired, flag down a taxi (fix the price beforehand) as rates are fairly reasonable and it's more straightforward than trying to tackle the chaos of the city's bus system.
The waterfront is a pleasant place to begin your tour of the area. Mixing alongside industrial-looking ships and warehouses, you get fishermen and pelicans, vendors flogging root snacks, and people dozing under the shade of a palm tree.
Ocean Boulevard is the waterfront's breezy main strip, and its focal point is the emotionally charged "Negro Aroused" statue depicting a crouched man breaking free from bondage. This is a replica of the original (now in the National Gallery) by Edna Manley, wife of former prime minister Norman Manley and mother of another former prime minister, Michael. The highlight of the waterfront walk is the National Gallery, a repository of Jamaican art, with important works by John Dunkley, Carl Abrahams, David Pottinger and Barrington Watson. (see recommended tours for more information).
The Crafts Market at the western end of Ocean Boulevard (open daily except Sunday) houses myriad little stores where you can pick up jewellery, T-shirts, carvings and richly embroidered baskets, though don't expect to be able to barter prices down. The area just north of the grassy waterfront forms the historic city centre, though many grand 18th century buildings were flattened in an earthquake in 1907. In colonial days, King Street was the main thoroughfare, and despite the earthquake, it still retains a number of beautiful old buildings with columned verandahs and decorative carvings. Half way up is the Parade, a large square used as a parade ground by British troops in the 18th century as well the site for grisly public floggings and hangings. The centre of the parade is the shady, statue-filled area, William Grant Park. Today, following a massive facelift in the 1980s, the Parade is one of the most vibrant spots in town -- music blares from ghetto blasters, traffic screeches, vendors hawk their baubles and queues for taxis and buses spill onto the road.
North of the park is the elegant sky-blue wedding cake building of the Ward Theatre, a magnet for thespians since the 18th century and home to the annual panto as well as seasonal spectacles; feel free to nose around the inside.
To the west, stretching three blocks from the Parade, is the crowded, colourful and cacophonous Jubilee Market (Mon-Fri) -- also known as Solas Market. It inspired a famous Jamaican folksong: "Come we go down a Solas Market; come we go buy banana." Further west are the ghetto areas known as the yards, where hard hitting wall murals act as territorial markers. The region is a no go for tourists - even Jamaicans from neighbouring areas think twice before entering the opposition's turf.
Duke Street & Around
Headquarters House & Gordon House
Gordon House is where Jamaica's parliament resides. The House of Representatives meets here most Tuesdays at 2pm, and the Senate sits in chamber on Fridays at 11am. Entrance to the public galleries, for a glimpse of how Jamaica conducts business, is free.
Other downtown sites:
UPTOWN KINGSTON - the district north of Cross Roads - is where the
Centuries ago, uptown was mostly rural, save the odd sugar estate or
Half Way Tree
Carry on walking east of Half Way Tree, and you hit Devon House on Hope Road (Tues-Sat 9.30am-5pm; J$110 including guided tour). This impressive edifice was built in 1881 by Jamaica's first black millionaire- it has fine landscaped grounds where you can stop for a snack or a drink - and the tour of the house is well worth considering (see Recommended Tours section).
Half a mile up Hope Road brings you to Jamaica House (closed to visitors),used as the Prime Minister's office, and King's House - the official home of the governor-general. (Mon-Fri by appointment; free; +1 876 927 6424). You can get a tour of the staterooms in this impressively restored 19th century house; more interestingly - the governess occasionally holds afternoon teas, as part of the island's successful 'Meet the People' programme. Contact the Jamaican Tourist Board on +1 876 929 9200 for more information, or reservations).
Hope Road is also home to the much-vaunted Bob Marley Museum (56 Hope
If you have wheels, consider driving into the Blue Mountains from here - or at least going up onto Skyline Drive - a road noted for its stunning views over the city and across the harbour to Port Royal. You can get there by following Barbican Road to its northernmost edges - then join Jack's Hill Road and then onto Skyline Drive.