| The great gorge is accessible from two sides,
north and south. Most of the more than five million visitors per year
choose to go to the South Rim, which has a lot more tourist facilities
than the north side, and, accordingly, tends to get overcrowded during the
summer season, and even winter weekends. The North Rim is a quieter and
more remote place and preferred by people who wish to get away from it
all.
Other than crowds, the difference between the north and south rims is
elevation, and, accordingly, climate and vegetation. Due to the
north-south slant of the Colorado Plateau, the north side rises up to
8,800 feet, while the southern edge is at around 7,000 feet above sea
level. The north side also has a markedly different look, featuring
pine-covered peninsulas carved by deep side canyons jutting out into the
main chasm, while the southern edge is more like an irregular
amphitheater, with easily accessible vista points along the rim.
The access road to the North Rim is frequently closed during winter due
to snow. Both rims can get very cold in the winter, and nights are cool
even during summer months. Hiking inside the canyon below the rim,
however, is quite another story, as summer temperatures near the Colorado
River at the bottom may reach 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Hikers, in
particular, will face extreme changes in climate and should be prepared.
THE SOUTH RIM
Tusayan
If you, like the majority of visitors, approach the canyon from the south
on Highway 180 via the nearby towns of Flagstaff or Williams, you will
most likely stop at Tusayan, a commercial area consisting mainly of gas
stations, motels, fast food restaurants, and the Grand Canyon Airport. The
main attraction here, however, is the Grand Canyon IMAX Theater, which is
highly recommended. The place features one of the best films in the nature
genre, drawing you right into the chasm and taking you on a vertiginous
flight between the canyons walls.
A few miles further north, at the park gate, you will be requested to
pay your $20 entrance fee per vehicle, or $10 per individual (pedestrian,
bicycle etc.). An Annual Grand Canyon Pass is available for $40. You are
now about to enter Grand Canyon Village, the focal point for all tourist
activity at the gorge.
Grand Canyon Village
Your first stop should be the Park Headquarters and Visitor Center, where
an abundance of books, films, and slides will help you to get better
acquainted with the park, and rangers will be available to answer any
Grand Canyon question you might have. You can stock up on supplies at
Babbitts General Store & Deli just south of the Visitor Center, then
go on to see the historic El Tovar Hotel and the Hopi House, a shopping
center built in the style of a Hopi pueblo. The Fred Harvey Museum inside
the Bright Angel History Room offers an interesting glimpse into the life
and times of the man who built the El Tovar Hotel and first brought
upscale tourism to the West. From here, start on your first exploration of
the canyon using either the West Rim or the East Rim Drive.
East Rim Drive
This 26-mile drive skirts most of the canyons south rim, offering several
overlooks to get a better view. Among the best viewing areas en route are
Yaki Point, thrusting out beyond the rim for a good look at canyon
formations, Grandview Point with its panoramic wide-angle view, and Lipan
Point, which provides an excellent view of the geological layers. A visit
to the Tusayan Ruins and Museum, showing walls and outlines of an Anasazi
pueblo built in the 12th century, provides fascinating information about
the Native cultures in the area. The drive ends at the Watchtower at
Desert View, a visitor complex containing services and a campground,
offering views of the Painted Desert to the east and the Colorado River
deep down inside the gorge.
West Rim Drive
This drive stays a little closer to the edge than its eastern counterpart
and also offers a greater variety of canyon views. Note that it is closed
to private vehicles in the summer, with a free shuttle service from Grand
Canyon Village taking over transportation, meaning you can always hop on
the bus if you get tired after choosing to hike the eight-mile Rim Trail.
Some of the best vistas in the park, enhanced through polarized
windows, are offered at the Yavapai Observation Station, perched on the
lip of the ravine. You'll also pass the Bright Angel Trail, one of the
most popular trails in the park with a steep descent into the canyon all
the way to Phantom Ranch. At the end of the drive is Hermits Rest, a
souvenir shop and refreshment stand in a rugged stone building.
THE NORTH RIM
While the South Rim is open 24 hours, 356 days a year, facilities on
the north side close down from late October to mid-May. You can still
visit the North Rim in winter, provided the access road is not closed by
snow, but be advised to bring a thermos with hot coffee or tea! Also, be
aware that although it is only ten miles from rim to rim as the crow
flies, it is 215 miles or four and a half hours by car. The North Rim is
44 miles south of Jacob Lake on State Route 67. This is a particularly
elevating experience during fall, when the Kaibab National Forest turns
into a dazzling showcase of yellow leaves trembling on aspen trees. A
cross-canyon shuttle connecting north and south rim in both directions is
available May through October for $60 one way, $100 round trip.
Visitor facilities on the northern edge are all clustered in the
relatively small area around Grand Canyon Lodge, a rustically elegant
castle-style hotel with terrific views from its terraces and dining rooms.
Its also the North Rim Visitor Center, booking center for mule rides, and
various other activities. A quarter-mile paved trail leads from the Grand
Canyon Lodge to Bright Angel Point, famous as the best spot for seeing
sunsets and sunrises over the canyon.
Eleven miles northeast from the Grand Canyon Lodge, Point Imperial is
the highest vantage point in the park at 8,803 feet, offering a panoramic
view of the Grand Canyons eastern end and Marble Canyon with glimpses of
the Painted Desert even further east. From there, follow the winding road
to Point Royal, about 23 miles from the lodge. The trail from the parking
area leads to another pair of outlooks, Cape Royal and Angels Window, the
latter a giant peephole carved into a ridge of rock. Views are equally
impressive from nearby Walhalla Overlook.
Trails
All main roads in the park are paved, and there is a wide network of
gravel roads in Kaibab National Forest, on both rims, which may become
impassable in wet or snowy weather. The inner canyon is accessible by
so-called 'Corridor Trails' connecting the rims. The trailhead for the
North Kaibab Trail is about two miles north of the North Rim visitor area.
The North Kaibab Trail descends deep into the canyon, then links with
Bright Angel Trail for the steep ascent up the South Rim. It is one of the
busiest trails, but there are many less traveled trails in remoter areas
of the canyon. Keep in mind that all hiking in the Grand Canyon is
strenuous, and it is imperative to carry plenty of water, food snacks,
sunscreen, and, vitally important in the summer, a shade hat. Also
remember that permits are required by the Backcountry Office for overnight
travel below the rim ($20 USD per person).
Jacob Lake
This is a small settlement at the intersection of U.S. 89A and State Route
67, the road leading to the North Rim. Its also the place where you might
end up staying overnight if you haven't made reservations for camping or
lodging in the summer. The Forest Services Jacob Lake Campground is
usually available till late afternoon, and you still may find vacancies at
the commercial Kaibab Lodge Camper Village. From here all the way to the
canyon, it is a huge area of still largely unexplored wilderness with
trails where you're more likely to meet squirrels, deer, bears, and
mountain lions than humans.
Hualapai and Havasupai
Just south of the Grand Canyon National Park boundary, the Hualapai and
Havasupai Indian reservations offer even more opportunities for scenic
hikes and canyon vistas. Both tribes have gotten into the tourist business
and provide both tours and accommodations for visitors. To reach the area
from the South Rim, drive down Highway 180/64 through Tusayan, continue
past the town of Valle on Highway 64 to Interstate 40 west. Follow I-40
past Williams and Seligman. Just above Seligman, turn onto historic
Highway 66, which will take you into the Hualapai Reservation. Its around
70 miles northeast to the end of State Route 18 at Hualapai Hilltop. This
is the trailhead for hikes and horseback rides into Havasu Canyon and the
ancestral village of Supai, where the Havasupai people have lived in
isolation since the days of the Spanish conquistadors. The areas main
tourist attraction, however, is gorgeous Havasu Canyon below the village,
and the hike along Havasu Creek with its spectacular waterfalls definitely
qualifies as one of the most scenic in the entire Grand Canyon.
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