| Cairo contains worlds within worlds, full of
charm and contradictions. It is a maddening city with its incessant
crowds, noise and pollution. Yet, it beckons you to linger and explore the
various districts - each a different piece of the puzzle, evoking a
fragment of Cairo's rich 7000 year old history. A walk down any street in
Cairo is a feast for the senses, and exploring beyond the popular
districts below will not fail to fascinate.
Central Cairo
The current heart of Cairo, the downtown region roughly centered around
Midan Tahrir, stretching east to Ramses Station and south to Garden City,
is relatively young - only in the mid 1800s was this area west of Ezbekiya
to the Nile drained and developed. The architecture of the downtown
cacophony of shops, restaurants, theatres, offices, apartment buildings,
and hotels possesses an old-world elegance. Stand at Midan Talat Harb and
you could almost imagine you were in Paris - well, until you are
approached by an old man in a galabeya peddling papyrus.
The area also boasts numerous museums and contemporary art galleries.
The Egyptian Museum, with it's monumental collection of antiquities, is
located on Midan Tahrir and requires several hours to peruse the
collection. The recently opened Abdeen Palace Museum displays a collection
from pre-independence times. Bookworms will want to browse among the
dozens of small second hand stalls at Ezbekiya, near Midan Opera, where
there is a good selection of both Arabic and foreign language publications
and magazines.
Old Cairo (Masr el Qadima)
Sometimes known as "Coptic Cairo", this area provides an
historical link between Cairo's Pharaonic and Islamic periods. It is
likely that the area was settled from the 6th century BC. It was here that
in 130 AD, the Roman emperor Trajan erected Babylon Fort, the core of the
old city. The area features several old Coptic churches as well as Ben
Ezra Synagogue - the oldest in Egypt. The ruins of the old city of Fustat
are also nearby. Many potters and ceramicists used to work in the area,
but have recently been relocated.
Islamic Cairo
The name of this district is misleading, as this fascinating part of the
city is no more "Islamic" than any other. It seems to be the
conventional way to describe the area that became the city centre during
medieval times. This area is very rich in history and culture, and takes
days to explore thoroughly.
Highlights of this district include the Citadel; the vibrant Khan el
Khalili bazaar which is full of small shops, craftsmen's workshops,
restaurants and coffee houses; Al Azhar Mosque, a thousand year old center
of Islamic study; the Gayer-Anderson Museum and the Cities of the Dead,
cemeteries that are also home for hundreds of living residents. Throughout
the district, there are dozens of beautiful mosques with many different
architectural styles, which are open to non-Muslim visitors. There are
also several old houses and secular buildings which have been converted
into museums or public spaces.
Giza
The area to the west of the Nile is technically a separate Governate from
Cairo, but inextricably linked to the city. It is difficult to imagine
that only a hundred years ago, the road leading west to the pyramids of
Giza was a simple dirt track through an agricultural area. Now it is a
clamorous wall of concrete and confusion, with numerous hotels,
restaurants, nightclubs and residences. The Pyramids of Giza have drawn
visitors throughout the centuries to gaze in awe at the "glory of the
ancients". Surrounding the Pyramids area are the obligatory papyrus
and perfume shops catering to the needs of the tourist.
Dokki and Agouza
Primarily a residential district comprising the villas and private
sporting clubs of Cairo's movers and shakers and more cramped
"baladi" quarters and market areas, there are a few interesting
sites to visit in the area. These include the Agricultural Museum and
Mamhoud Khalil Museum, a refurbished mansion displaying mostly European
art and sculpture collected by Khalil, a pre-war politician. Moving north
along the Corniche, the main landmarks are the Balloon Theatre and the
National Circus, both of which occasionally give performances, and the
British Council, which offers language training in both English and
Arabic.
Mohandissen
One of Cairo's newer districts, this is a sprawl of residential and office
towers, dominated by Arab League Street. The strip is replete with
upmarket boutiques and just about every American fast food chain
imaginable. It is a veritable parking lot on summer nights as cars cruise
up and down the wide avenue. Several cosy restaurants and pubs can be
found tucked away in the maze of backstreets.
Gezira and Roda Islands
The two main islands in the Nile are both developed to the point where you
might forget you are technically on an island. Gezira, the northern
island, can be divided into two separate districts. The southern half,
Gezira proper, contains the new Opera House, where cultural performances
are presented throughout the year, and the Museum of Modern Art,
displaying work of Egyptian artists from the last 100 years. The Cairo
Tower sits to the north and provides a spectacular panoramic view of the
city from the top - on a clear day you can count pyramids in the distance.
The northern tip of the island is the district of Zamalek, once a
British neighborhood which miraculously retains a residential feel despite
the dense population. Zamalek's multitude of popular Western style bars
and nightclubs are a big attraction. Most of the island is dominated by
the Gezirah Sporting Club, a private sporting club restricted to those who
can afford the pricey membership fees.
Roda Island is more densely populated, but is worth visiting for the
Manial Palace, built in 1903 by King Farouk's uncle Prince Mohamed Ali
Tewfik. Look out for the five buildings in the palace grounds which have
an eclectic architectural style. The museum has a lovely collection of old
manuscripts. There are no crowds of tourists here, making it a peaceful
afternoon.
Heliopolis, Nasr City and beyond
The area east of the city center started being developed at the end of the
19th century by a Belgian entrepreneur, Baron Empain, whose residence, now
unfortunately closed, can be seen on the way to the airport. This upmarket
district has numerous Western-style shops and restaurants. The elegant
arcaded buildings in the area around Midan Roxy are architecturally
appealing. Interesting sites in this area include the October War Panorama
and Sadat's Tomb, erected on the site where the late President was
assassinated in 1981.
Northwest of Heliopolis, and easily reached by Cairo's Metro line, is
Matariyya. This contains the site of ancient Heliopolis, the City of the
Sun - the earliest settlement in the Cairo area. The granite Obelisk of
Senusert I (dating from around 1900 BC) stands at Midan al-Misallah, and
500 metres south stands the Virgin's Tree, which supposedly shaded the
Holy Family during their time in Egypt.
Maadi
To the south of Cairo, the suburb of Maadi is a popular residential area
for foreigners, and though it has been subject to rampant development, the
tree-lined streets camouflaging private villas in the older sections of
the district are a peaceful change to the hustle and bustle of the rest of
the city. Felucca rides on the Nile departing from the docks along the
Corniche in Maadi are a relaxing way to spend an afternoon.
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